Introducing EDWIN and The Art of Japanese Selvedge Denim

At Lemkus, we're incisive about curating labels that embody authenticity, and every product we bring to our shelves are selected because each tells a story – from preserving traditional methods or pushing the boundaries of design – the brands we showcase are carefully selected to reflect our dedication. So, we couldn't be more thrilled to be introducing a Japanese brand to our repertoire; if you know, you know when it comes to the way Japan stands as a titanic design force, centred in impeccability and precision. 

EDWIN is a clarified embodiment of this said heritage. Founded in 1947 as a progressive denim and clothing brand infusing their Japanese background with a global vision and attitude – the label uses design to explore multiple intersections of culture from music, art and creativity touchstones, with roots in street and skate culture.

Tracing its roots back to the post-World War II era, when American culture, including workwear, had a significant impact on Japan – the story goes that U.S. military personnel stationed in Japan brought their blue jeans, catching the attention of Japanese fashion enthusiasts. As Japan began rebuilding its textile industry, local manufacturers became fascinated by denim and started producing their own iterations of the fabric, from the point of view that is uniquely artisanal and explorative within Japanese workmanship traditions. It also just so happens that EDWIN’s Founder Tsunemi Yonehachi was amongst the first people to ever bring vintage American jeans to Japan in the postwar era; and his influence played a key role in igniting the nation’s deep and enduring passion for denim. 

The term ‘selvedge’ refers to this iconic self-finished edge of denim, produced on those vintage shuttle looms that weave fabric more slowly and with greater precision than modern machines. These slow production methods, coupled with the use of high-quality cotton, result in a dense, textured fabric that develops unique fades over time, revealing the wearer’s lifestyle and movement patterns. This is also why Japanese denim arrives in your hands already feeling vintage and clean as could be.

Japanese selvedge denim products are generally sold raw or unwashed, allowing the jeans to mould to the wearer’s body and create personalised wear patterns, a hallmark of raw denim culture and the unique characteristics we embed within our clothing are expressions of our lived experience and this is what makes denim such an enduring and classic fabric in fashion. Also, the exceptional quality of Japanese denim is reflected in its dyeing process, particularly the use of natural indigo dyes, with Japanese manufacturers often employing traditional rope dyeing, in which yarns are dipped multiple times to build up layers of rich colour. As the denim ages, these layers fade to reveal lighter shades, giving the jeans a unique, lived-in look — a kind of initial fit that usually only wears-over-time can create.